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\title{To Estimate the Standard Minute Value of a Polo-Shirt by Work Study}
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             \author[1]{Md. Tanjim  Hossain}

             \affil[1]{  Mawlana Bhashani Science and Technology University, Northern University Bangladesh}

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\date{\small \em Received: 7 April 2015 Accepted: 5 May 2015 Published: 15 May 2015}

\maketitle


\begin{abstract}
        


This study is based on calculation of standard minute value of Polo-shirt. An experimental investigation for the distribution of SMV for each and every operation require for making a Polo-shirt and provides a clear and details concepts for determining line balancing, machine requirements, man power allocation for setting a definite target within a reasonable efficiency. This study is a details discussion and distribution of SMV which will assist to minimize SMV by having a better synchronization with man, machine, materials and methods to achieve higher efficiency.

\end{abstract}


\keywords{polo-shirt, smv, line balancing, performance rating, stitch type, allowances, work study.}

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\let\tabcellsep& 	 	 		 
\section[{Introduction}]{Introduction}\par
he polo shirt would be better named the tennis shirt, since it was first designed by Jean René Lactose, a world-class tennis player who was fondly called the alligator or crocodile because of his vicious playing tactics. Lactose, like many tennis players in the early 20th century, felt tennis garb was restrictive, as players had to wear long sleeved shirts and ties. In 1929, Lactose made the polo or tennis shirt out of pique cotton in a loose knit, with a button down collar that could be flipped up for extra sun protection, and thankfully no tie \hyperref[b0]{[1]}.\par
As dressing became less formal for men, the polo shirt migrated into popular culture as semi-casual wear. Ralph Lauren's brand Polo was helpful in setting the style of the polo firmly in place in the 1950s. These shirts have even become popular in school uniforms for private and often Catholic schools. While most private schools in the 1970s insisted on boys wearing the more standard non-knit cotton button down, now many simply require a polo shirt in the color the school wears. In the 1980s, Lactose brand polo shirts were for a time, a status symbol for both young men and women. manufacturers requires low inventory and quick response systems that turn out a wide variety of products to meet customers demand. It is especially in the apparel industry that managers are trying to develop their current systems or looking for new production techniques in order to keep pace with the rapid changes in the fashion industry.\par
Therefore, to develop a new system, good observation is needed. However, to observe real manufacturing systems is very expensive and sometimes cumbersome \hyperref[b2]{[3]}.\par
In garment production, until garment components are gathered into a finished garment, they are assembled through a sub-assembly process.\par
The production process includes a set of workstations, at each of which a specific task is carried out in a restricted sequence, with hundreds of employees and thousands of bundles of subassemblies producing different styles simultaneously \hyperref[b3]{[4]}.\par
The joining together of components, known as the sewing process which is the most labor intensive part of garment manufacturing, makes the structure complex as the some works has a priority before being assembled \hyperref[b4]{[5]}.\par
Furthermore, since sewing process is labor intensive; apart from material costs, the cost structure of the sewing process is also important. Therefore, this process is of critical importance and needs to be planned more carefully \hyperref[b5]{[6]}.\par
Assembling process flows from one station to another. In assembly line balancing, allocation of jobs to machines is based on the objective of minimizing the workflow among the operators, reducing the throughput time as well as the work in progress and thus increasing the productivity. Sharing a job of work between several people is called division of labor. Division of labor should be balanced equally by ensuring the time spent at each station approximately the same \hyperref[b6]{[7]}.\par
Since the late 1970s, the RMG industry started developing in Bangladesh primarily as an exportoriented industry and the domestic market for RMG has been increasing fast due to increase in personal disposable income and change in life style. 
\section[{T}]{T}\par
The sector rapidly attained high importance in terms of employment, foreign exchange earnings and its contribution to GDP.\par
Abstract-Though anybody could certainly get less expensive pools, wearing the Lactose with its tiny alligator insignia on the chest was considered highly fashionable. It was associated with the 1980s "Preppy" look \hyperref[b1]{[2]}  
\section[{G}]{G}\par
. e-mail: tanjimseu@yahoo.com\par
The major importers are European Union, USA and Canada. Knit garments are exported to 148 countries and woven garments are exported to 132 countries  {\ref [8]}. The major buyers are Wal-Mart, target, Marks and Spencer, Tesco, Levi's, Zara, JC Penny, GAP, C \&A, UNIQLO etc. It contributes more than 80\% of total export earnings.\par
Since buyer comes to this region for the lowest labor price (\$0.11 per shirt for Bangladesh, \$0.26 for India, \$0.79 for Srilanka), the quality of the garments, efficiency and productivity of Bangladesh RMG sector remain ignored even in the tough competitive market.\par
Factories in Srilanka operate at 80\% -90\% of efficiency, whereas in Bangladesh, according to some experts, productivity is between 35\% and 55\% of efficiency with very few exceptions. For the RMG sector in Bangladesh, productivity alone can make a difference between life and death \hyperref[b7]{[9]}.II. 
\section[{Objectives of the Study}]{Objectives of the Study}\par
The main objective of the study is to determine the manpower and machine allocation for particular target. It is also designed to address the following issues: ? To determine line balancing ? To determine operational sequence of the manufacturing process of Polo-shirt ? To develop the target of the manufacturing process ? To increase the productivity of the company ? To make proper distribution of SMV ? To make better utilization of man, machine and materials III. 
\section[{Methodology}]{Methodology}\par
We have done this experiment in SM Knitwear Ltd. Bangladesh. We attempted this study for proper utilization of man and machine. We made a little bit change of existing line balancing and process layout for number of operations that was done by man power. In this experiment we used auto machines in some operations instead of man power and also find out the performed SMV after the modification of operations.\par
A polo shirt, also known as a golf shirt and tennis shirt, is a form of shirt with a collar, a placket with typically two or three buttons, and an optional pocket. Polo shirts are usually made of knitted cloth (rather than woven cloth) usually piqué cotton or less commonly silk, merino wool, or synthetic fibers. A dress-length version of the shirt is called a polo dress.   Earlier line was not balanced properly and nonvalue added helper was used. After study line has been balanced by time and capacity study according to target such as SMV for placket box 0.484, main label joint 0.396, side seam 0.77 and side slit tape attach 0.66. For which operation to achieve target need 1, 1, 2 and 2 operators consecutively but before balancing they used 2, 2, 3, 3 operators and also after over lock operation used helper. After study auto thread trimmer over lock machine has been set for those operations and two helpers have been reduced. Before study man power was 44 and after study man power is 38. Ultimately keeping the target same 6 persons have been saved.  There are different kinds of polo shirt available in market and sewn in the ready-made garments manufacturing companies such as, polo shirt with single collar, polo shirt with double collar, polo shirt having rib cuff and without rib cuff, short sleeve and long sleeve polo shirt, polo shirt with slit band and without slit band, polo shirt with button and without button. Number of man power required to stitch a garments against a particular line target vary according to the type and style that is selected to stitch hence SMV of the polo shirt vary according to the style and number of operations carried out. And according to the style we can define as basic or critical. 
\section[{Results And Discussion}]{Results And Discussion}\par
The estimated results have been presented in Table \hyperref[tab_1]{1}, 2, 3 and 4. From the Table \hyperref[tab_1]{1} we have worked centering a basic polo shirt which contains the parts as front part, back part, placket, sleeve, collar and hem.\par
Again from the Table \hyperref[tab_3]{3} it is found that the number of single operations required to stitch the polo shirt is 32 (including operators and helpers) that was 34 before the study (Table \hyperref[tab_2]{2}). And required total number of man power is 44 (34 operators and 10 helpers) before study and 38 (30 operators and 8 helpers) after study.\par
In the table 4, consider 110 \% performance rating and 20\% machine and personal allowances. Finally we have got the SMV 14.552 from the Table \hyperref[tab_4]{4} for the above mentioned polo-shirt.\par
V. 
\section[{CONCLUSION}]{CONCLUSION}\par
This present study is based on an effective layout model of polo shirt where to use balancing process using short cut method. Here we have suggested following pitch diagram method to identify bottleneck operations and to solve the problem by 100 percent balancing.\par
During the study we have seen thread trimming is being done manually using helper which is non value added unnecessary operation can be removed by setting auto trimmer along with machine or by using auto machine. The study shows that this balanced layout model has brought a better synchronization among man machine and materials increasing the efficiency and productivity. Traditionally operated garment industries are facing problems like unnecessary operations, wastage, rejection, poor line balancing etc. This problem can be eradicated by getting used with 5S method and making the working environment totally visualized \hyperref[b8]{[10]}. Here to achieve better quality and cost effective production we can follow Standard Operation procedure (SOP) .When we will follow SOP we will be able to find unnecessary operations and due to follow standard procedure wastage and rejection will gradually come down at a tolerable level or zero. Thereafter in this way we can reach to our expected productivity and efficiency which is the main goal of our study.\begin{figure}[htbp]
\noindent\textbf{1}\includegraphics[]{image-2.png}
\caption{\label{fig_0}Figure 1 :}\end{figure}
 \begin{figure}[htbp]
\noindent\textbf{}\includegraphics[]{image-3.png}
\caption{\label{fig_1}}\end{figure}
 \begin{figure}[htbp]
\noindent\textbf{1} \par 
\begin{longtable}{P{0.2081185567010309\textwidth}P{0.641881443298969\textwidth}}
Sl. No.\tabcellsep Parts of a Polo-\\
\tabcellsep shirt\\
01\tabcellsep Collar\\
02\tabcellsep Placket\\
03\tabcellsep Front Part\\
04\tabcellsep Back Part\\
05\tabcellsep Sleeve\\
06\tabcellsep Hem\\
\multicolumn{2}{l}{Making process of Polo-shirt}\\
\tabcellsep Placket Rolling\\
\tabcellsep â??"\\
\tabcellsep Placket Join\\
\tabcellsep â??"\\
\tabcellsep Nose Tuck\\
\tabcellsep â??"\\
\tabcellsep Shoulder Join\\
\tabcellsep â??"\\
\tabcellsep Collar Join\\
\tabcellsep â??"\\
\tabcellsep Collar Piping\\
\tabcellsep â??"\\
\multicolumn{2}{l}{Upper Placket Top Stitch}\\
\tabcellsep â??"\\
\multicolumn{2}{l}{Lower Placket Top Stitch}\\
\tabcellsep â??"\\
\tabcellsep Back Neck Top\\
\tabcellsep â??"\\
\tabcellsep Placket top\\
\tabcellsep â??"\\
\tabcellsep Placket Box\\
\tabcellsep â??"\\
\tabcellsep Sleeve Cuff Join\\
\tabcellsep â??"\\
\tabcellsep Cuff Top Stitch\\
\tabcellsep â??"\\
\tabcellsep Sleeve Join\\
\tabcellsep â??"\\
\tabcellsep Arm Hole Top\\
\tabcellsep â??"\\
\tabcellsep Side Seam\end{longtable} \par
 
\caption{\label{tab_1}Table 1 :}\end{figure}
 \begin{figure}[htbp]
\noindent\textbf{2} \par 
\begin{longtable}{P{0.85\textwidth}}
Year 2015\\
27\\
XV Issue II Version I\\
) Volume\\
Journal of Researches in Engineering ( G\\
Global\end{longtable} \par
 
\caption{\label{tab_2}Table 2 :}\end{figure}
 \begin{figure}[htbp]
\noindent\textbf{3} \par 
\begin{longtable}{P{0.043880099916736054\textwidth}P{0.4104912572855953\textwidth}P{0.07785179017485429\textwidth}P{0.26752706078268107\textwidth}P{0.026186511240632804\textwidth}P{0.024063280599500414\textwidth}}
Sl. No.\tabcellsep Operations\tabcellsep Machines\tabcellsep Stitch type\tabcellsep \multicolumn{2}{l}{Man power}\\
\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep Helper\tabcellsep Operator\\
1\tabcellsep Placket position mark\tabcellsep Helper\tabcellsep ?\tabcellsep 1\\
2\tabcellsep Placket fusing\tabcellsep Iron man\tabcellsep ?\tabcellsep 1\\
3\tabcellsep Body scissoring\tabcellsep Helper\tabcellsep ?\tabcellsep 1\\
4\tabcellsep +Both placket joint on front part\tabcellsep LS\tabcellsep 1N Lock Stitch\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 2\\
5\tabcellsep Placket nose tack\tabcellsep LS\tabcellsep 1N Lock Stitch\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 1\\
6\tabcellsep Placket raw edge cut\tabcellsep Helper\tabcellsep ?\tabcellsep 1\\
7\tabcellsep Lower placket close\tabcellsep LS\tabcellsep 1N Lock Stitch\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 1\\
8\tabcellsep Upper placket close\tabcellsep LS\tabcellsep 1N Lock Stitch\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 1\\
9\tabcellsep Placket security tack\tabcellsep LS\tabcellsep 1N Lock Stitch\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 1\\
10\tabcellsep Placket box\tabcellsep LS\tabcellsep 1N Lock Stitch\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 1\\
11\tabcellsep Body match\tabcellsep Helper\tabcellsep ?\tabcellsep 1\\
12\tabcellsep Shoulder joint with piping\tabcellsep OL\tabcellsep Over edge Stitch\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 1\\
13\tabcellsep Shoulder top stitch\tabcellsep FL\tabcellsep Chain / Flat bed\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 1\\
\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep Stitch\tabcellsep \\
14\tabcellsep Collar mark\tabcellsep Helper\tabcellsep ?\tabcellsep 1\\
15\tabcellsep Collar over lock\tabcellsep OL\tabcellsep Over edge Stitch\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 1\\
16\tabcellsep Collar joint\tabcellsep OL\tabcellsep Over edge Stitch\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 2\\
17\tabcellsep Neck piping\tabcellsep FL\tabcellsep Chain / Flat bed\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 1\\
\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep Stitch\tabcellsep \\
18\tabcellsep Neck top stitch\tabcellsep LS\tabcellsep 1N Lock Stitch\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 1\\
19\tabcellsep Main label joint\tabcellsep LS\tabcellsep 1N Lock Stitch\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 1\\
20\tabcellsep Sleeve match and shoulder piping\tabcellsep Helper\tabcellsep ?\tabcellsep 1\\
\tabcellsep cut\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \\
21\tabcellsep Sleeve joint\tabcellsep OL\tabcellsep Over edge Stitch\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 2\\
22\tabcellsep Bottom hem\tabcellsep FL\tabcellsep Chain / Flat bed\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 1\\
\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep Stitch\tabcellsep \\
23\tabcellsep Care label joint\tabcellsep LS\tabcellsep 1N Lock Stitch\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 1\\
24\tabcellsep Placket servicing\tabcellsep OL\tabcellsep Over edge Stitch\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 1\\
25\tabcellsep Side seam\tabcellsep OL\tabcellsep Over edge Stitch\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 2\\
26\tabcellsep Side slit tape measure and cut\tabcellsep Helper\tabcellsep ?\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 1\\
27\tabcellsep Side slit tape attach\tabcellsep LS\tabcellsep 1N Lock Stitch\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 2\\
28\tabcellsep Side slit tape top stitch\tabcellsep LS\tabcellsep 1N Lock Stitch\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 2\\
29\tabcellsep Slit security tack\tabcellsep LS\tabcellsep 1N Lock Stitch\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 1\\
30\tabcellsep Button attach and hole mark\tabcellsep Helper\tabcellsep ?\tabcellsep 1\\
31\tabcellsep Button hole\tabcellsep BH\tabcellsep 1N Lock Stitch\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 1\\
32\tabcellsep Button attach\tabcellsep BS\tabcellsep 1N Lock Stitch\tabcellsep \tabcellsep 1\\
\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep 8\tabcellsep 30\\
\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \multicolumn{2}{l}{Total man= 38}\end{longtable} \par
 
\caption{\label{tab_3}Table 3 :}\end{figure}
 \begin{figure}[htbp]
\noindent\textbf{4} \par 
\begin{longtable}{P{0.060594059405940585\textwidth}P{0.4586633663366337\textwidth}P{0.09089108910891089\textwidth}P{0.1657920792079208\textwidth}P{0.07405940594059406\textwidth}}
Sl. No.\tabcellsep Operations\tabcellsep Average cycle time in second\tabcellsep Performed SMV\tabcellsep \\
1\tabcellsep Placket position mark\tabcellsep 17\tabcellsep 0.374\tabcellsep \\
2\tabcellsep Placket fusing\tabcellsep 18\tabcellsep 0.396\tabcellsep \\
3\tabcellsep Body scissoring\tabcellsep 15\tabcellsep 0.33\tabcellsep \\
4\tabcellsep Both placket joint on front part\tabcellsep 43\tabcellsep 0.946\tabcellsep \\
5 6\tabcellsep Placket nose tack Placket raw edge cut\tabcellsep 21 21.33\tabcellsep 0.462 0.469\tabcellsep Year 2015\\
7 8\tabcellsep Lower placket close Upper placket close\tabcellsep 19 19\tabcellsep 0.418 0.418\tabcellsep 29\\
9 10 11 12 13 14 15\tabcellsep Placket security tack Placket box Body match Shoulder joint with piping Collar mark Collar joint Shoulder top stitch\tabcellsep 18 22 15 20 20 18 36.66\tabcellsep 0.396 0.484 0.33 0.44 0.396 0.806 0.44\tabcellsep ) Volume XV Issue II Version I\\
16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24\tabcellsep Collar over lock Neck piping Neck top stitch Main label joint Sleeve match and shoulder piping cut Sleeve joint Bottom hem Care label joint Placket servicing\tabcellsep 19 20 20 18 15 31 16 17 16\tabcellsep 0.418 0.44 0.44 0.396 0.33 0.682 0.352 0.352 0.374\tabcellsep Global Journal of Researches in Engineering ( G\\
25\tabcellsep Side seam\tabcellsep 35\tabcellsep 0.77\tabcellsep \\
26\tabcellsep Side slit tape measure and cut\tabcellsep 15\tabcellsep 0.33\tabcellsep \\
27\tabcellsep Side slit tape attach\tabcellsep 30\tabcellsep 0.66\tabcellsep \\
28\tabcellsep Side slit tape top stitch\tabcellsep 32\tabcellsep 0.704\tabcellsep \\
29\tabcellsep Slit security tack\tabcellsep 13\tabcellsep 0.286\tabcellsep \\
\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep © 20 15 Global Journals Inc. (US)\tabcellsep \end{longtable} \par
 
\caption{\label{tab_4}Table 4 :}\end{figure}
 			\footnote{© 20 15 Global Journals Inc. (US)} 		 		\backmatter  			 
\subsection[{Global Journals Inc. (US) Guidelines Handbook 2015}]{Global Journals Inc. (US) Guidelines Handbook 2015}\par
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