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\title{SMV Distribution of Double Layer Men's Shorts on the basis of Time Study: An Authentic Mode of Operation Breakdown for Industrial Bulk Production}
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             \author[1]{Habibur  Rahman}

             \author[2]{Mahmudul  Hasan}

             \author[3]{Habibur  Rahman}

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\date{\small \em Received: 16 December 2016 Accepted: 4 January 2017 Published: 15 January 2017}

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\begin{abstract}
        


The production system of apparel manufacturing industry depends on different factors. Among these operation break down and SMV (standard minute value) distribution play vital role on the productivity depending on lead time to dispatch the product. To cope up with this situation shorten production cycle time in the garment industry is being an emergence. Sometimes labors are forced physically and mentally to perform their task within undefined time. In this study an approach to experimental knowledge based roadmap is presented for men?s shorts sewing line production. A details description of workstations sequence, machine and man allocation based on SMV are described. Reasonable SMVs is calculated by time study for producing shorts. Hourly target is also defined with normal efficiency as well as set up a well-balanced sewing line in manufacturing process. A standard may be maintained in the apparel industry to obtain maximum productivity by using the operation break down properly. The outcome of this observation is to synchronize workstations and to minimize SMV as the sense of productivity improvement.

\end{abstract}


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\let\tabcellsep& 	 	 		 
\section[{Introduction}]{Introduction}\par
he ready-made garment (RMG) sector is the lifeblood of Bangladesh economy achieving higher export growth every year. The sector is now the largest contributor not only to overseas trade but also to the national economy. Bangladesh textiles and RMG industry comprises 1,55,557units -1,48,000 handlooms units, 3,284 mechanized primary textile units, 5150 export-oriented readymade garments manufacturing units and 273 garments washing-dyeing units. The sector is a major foreign exchange earner for Bangladesh contributing 77 percent to the country's net T Baggies, Bermuda shorts, Boardshorts, Boxer shorts, Cargo shorts, Jorts, Cut-offs short etc. are used by men. Women use Boyshorts, Bun huggers, Culottes, Daisy Dukes, Dolphin shorts, Hotpants, Short shorts, Skorts etc. most \hyperref[b3]{[5]}.\par
To make shorts industrially about 44 operations are needed. Some of these are performed by helper manually and rest of operations is completed by the operator with help of machine.\par
Assembly Lines are used in high production situations where the work to be performed can be divided into small tasks and tasks assigned to the workstations on the line. Key advantage of using manual assembly line is specialization of labor. By giving each worker a limited set of tasks to do repeatedly \hyperref[b4]{[6]}.\par
A standard method is needed to get the maximum productivity by using the assigned time properly. The job is broken down into parts and the parts are timed. The parts are known as Element. Contents of each element should be homogeneous as possible. If the element is shorter, two or more should be combined into one \hyperref[b5]{[7]}. In assembly line balancing, allocation of jobs to machines is based on the objective of minimizing the workflow among the operators, reducing the throughput time as well as the work in progress and thus increasing the productivity. Sharing a job of work between several people is called division of labor. Division of labor should be balanced equally by ensuring the time spent at each station approximately the same. Each individual step in the assembly of product has to be analyzed carefully, and allocated to stations in a balanced way over the available workstations. Each operator then carries out operations properly and the work flow is synchronized. In a detailed work flow, synchronized line includes short distances between stations, low volume of work in process, precise of planning of production times, and predictable production quantity \hyperref[b6]{[8]}.\par
Standard minute value is the standard time, to complete any given task by using best possible methods at standard level of performance. To estimate SMV we have to analyze the garment carefully and check different factors that affect the SMV. SMV of a product varies according to the work content or simply according to number of operations, length of seams, fabric types, stitching accuracy needed, sewing technology to be used etc.\par
Standard minutes (SMV) of few basic products have been listed down with its SMV range according to work content variation \hyperref[b7]{[9]}.\par
Breakdown is a listing of the content of a job by elements. A garment consists of some parts\& some group of operations. Breakdown means to writing down all parts \& all process/operation after one another lying with the complete garment according to process sequence. It is a must to write down the estimated SMV \& type of machine beside each \&every process \hyperref[b8]{[10]}.\par
Work study is a generic term for method study and work measurement which are used in the Examination of human work in all its contexts and which lead systematically to the Investigation of all the factors which affect the efficiency and economy of the situation being reviewed, in order to effect improvement  {\ref [11]}.\par
Therefore, garment production needs properly rationalized manufacturing technology, management and planning \hyperref[b9]{[12]}. Performance rating is the process during which the time study engineer compares the performance of the operator under observation with his own concept of normal performance. The concept of normal performance must be such that the time standards set from it and must be within the capacity of the majority of workers in the enterprise \hyperref[b10]{[13]}.\par
Line balancing is the allocation of sewing machine according to style and design of garment. It depends of that what type of garment we have to produce \hyperref[b11]{[14]}.\par
An experimental investigation for the distribution of SMV for each and every operation require for making a men's and provides a clear and details concepts for determining line balancing, machine requirements, man power allocation for setting a definite target within a reasonable efficiency. 
\section[{II.}]{II.} 
\section[{OBJECTIVES OF THE STUDY}]{OBJECTIVES OF THE STUDY}\par
The main objective of this study is to form a sequential list of all the elements (operation breakdown) in sewing line involving with producing double layer shorts as well as distributing Standard minute value for every element (tasks) of this job. Besides, following issues are concerned: To draw a clear job flow chart of making shorts, to determine the manpower and machine allocation, to define a way to minimize SMV and maximize productivity and to set up a balanced sewing line practically. 
\section[{III.}]{III.} 
\section[{METHODOLOGY}]{METHODOLOGY}\par
A study was carried out in the garments Industry named Ehsan Garments Ltd. Located at Tongi, Gazipur, Dhaka, Bangladesh and Moonlight Garments Ltd. Located at Tongi, Gazipur, Dhaka, Bangladesh. We attempted this study for proper utilization of man and machine. 
\section[{a) Analysis of particular Garment (designed double layer shorts)}]{a) Analysis of particular Garment (designed double layer shorts)}\par
Generally, two different types of fabric are used for double layer shorts. For our study we took 100\% polyester single jersey fabric (width-58-60", weight-120gsm, technique-knitted) as lining fabric and ricehole mesh fabric (width58-60", 140gsm, warp knitted) as shell (outer) portion. As such type of shorts is used as nightwear, ready for the gym, walking fit wear, athletic fit The investigation occurred for M size garments consisting with 32-34" waist and 8" inseam. Calculated Production/Hour @ target efficiency = 60/Operation SMV @ target Efficiency Calculated Machine number = (SMV @ target efficiency * Hourly production target/60) ? Last of all a table form summary of required number of machine was drawn to achieve hourly production target. 
\section[{d) Time study}]{d) Time study}\par
In order to balance the sewing line as well as to increase the efficiency of the line, at first a detailed work and time study was carried out to find the task durations.\par
However, the time required to complete a task depends on a lot of factors such as the task, the operator, the properties of fabric and sub materials, working environment, quality level of the product, the hour of the day, psychology of the operator etc.  
\section[{Result and Discussion}]{Result and Discussion} 
\section[{a) Operation breakdown sheet and time study sheet}]{a) Operation breakdown sheet and time study sheet}\par
The following table denotes the operations breakdown (elements) sheet and number of required machines.  
\section[{A. Line balancing Chart}]{A. Line balancing Chart}\par
Line balancing is the allocation of sewing machine according to style and design of garment. Line balancing Chart is such type of tool that indicates how a sewing line balanced. It describes every workstation and required time for completing individual task in sequence with the cooperation of Basic pitch Time (BPT).\par
The line balanced according to our calculated SMV for the double layer men's shorts we found the following Line Balancing Chart: 
\section[{Fig.2. Line balancing Chart}]{Fig.2. Line balancing Chart}\par
The time consumption of every workstation is nearly about to BPT and that means the chances of bottleneck are reduced. 
\section[{B. Discussion}]{B. Discussion}\par
During our investigation, we found few hours that failed to achieve our estimated target and bottleneck has risen up. The reason of this problem was listed out in bellow:\par
V. 
\section[{Conclusion}]{Conclusion}\par
This study on operation break down and SMV distribution of men's shorts is on the basis of time study for bulk production in industry. It is very important and critical task in an apparel production industry. In practice we may use more or less machines, man power, raw materials and other resources for want of proper balance of tasks and as well as the prior precise apparel industry. Thus it would reduce the all kinds of wastes and consume least resources i.e. man, machine, materials, money, etc. It will definitely help us to come the main goal of an industry that is making maximum profit.\par
By this study, we have described the whole job of making double layer short broken down into elements. This study was going on with experienced and non-experienced machine operators and helpers. The environment kept in standard for Bangladesh. It is suggested that to get better productivity all the people involved with production should be experienced and standard environment of workstations should maintain properly. According to our elements (operation) bulletin we also designed a line layout concerned with the SMVs sheet that taken by direct time study. Line balancing chart indicates succeed of the established line.\par
To \begin{figure}[htbp]
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\noindent\textbf{1} \par 
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XVII Issue I Version I\tabcellsep 1 2 3 4 5 6\tabcellsep Back rise join lining part Care label attach to back part Front rise join lining part Back + front part matching lining part Side seam join lining part Side pocket bag close\tabcellsep 4 OL SNL 4 OL H 4 OL 5 OL\tabcellsep 0.3 0.23 0.27 0.5 0.3\tabcellsep 200 261 222 120 200\tabcellsep 0.28\tabcellsep 214\tabcellsep \multicolumn{2}{l}{1.27 0.97 1.14 2.11 1.27}\tabcellsep 1.18\\
( ) Volume G Journal of Researches in Engineering Global\tabcellsep \multicolumn{2}{l}{7 8 9 10 Pocket bag join to body Pocket pair matching \& thread cut Front rise join Shell part Pocket join position mark 11 Pocket join position corner cut 12 Pocket opening 1/4 top stitch 13 Side Pocket fixed tack 14 Pocket w/belt position tack 15 Sticker remove 16 Back rise join shell part 17 Back + front part matching shell part 18 Side seam join shell part 19 Side seam join position over lock}\tabcellsep H 4 OL H SNL H SNL SNL SNL H 4 OL H SNL 4 OL\tabcellsep 0.29 0.9 0.65 0.5 0.28 0.25 0.75 0.55\tabcellsep 207 67 92 120 214 240 80 109\tabcellsep 0.28 0.28 0.28 0.25 0.26\tabcellsep 214 214 214 240 231\tabcellsep \multicolumn{2}{l}{1.23 3.80 2.75 2.11 1.18 1.06 3.17 2.32}\tabcellsep 1.18 1.18 1.18 1.06 1.10\\
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\tabcellsep \multicolumn{2}{l}{21 Shell part mark \&fitting}\tabcellsep H\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep 0.28\tabcellsep 214\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep 1.18\\
\tabcellsep \multicolumn{2}{l}{22 Lining part \& shell part matching}\tabcellsep H\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep 0.22\tabcellsep 273\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep 0.93\\
\tabcellsep 23\tabcellsep Lining part join to shell part w/belt position\tabcellsep SNL\tabcellsep 0.75\tabcellsep 80\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \multicolumn{2}{l}{3.17}\\
\tabcellsep \multicolumn{2}{l}{24 Body turning}\tabcellsep H\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep 0.30\tabcellsep 200\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep 1.27\end{longtable} \par
 
\caption{\label{tab_0}Table 1 :}\end{figure}
 \begin{figure}[htbp]
\noindent\textbf{2} \par 
\begin{longtable}{P{0.04916452442159383\textwidth}P{0.030044987146529565\textwidth}P{0.034415167095115676\textwidth}P{0.05025706940874036\textwidth}P{0.36600257069408737\textwidth}P{0.04315552699228792\textwidth}P{0.0387853470437018\textwidth}P{0.032776349614395885\textwidth}P{0.03223007712082262\textwidth}P{0.032776349614395885\textwidth}P{0.037146529562982006\textwidth}P{0.04260925449871465\textwidth}P{0.06063624678663239\textwidth}}
\tabcellsep SI\tabcellsep M/c\tabcellsep OP id\tabcellsep Process name\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \multicolumn{3}{l}{TIME(Second)}\tabcellsep \tabcellsep Avg.\tabcellsep B.T. with\tabcellsep S.M.V\\
\tabcellsep No\tabcellsep \tabcellsep no.\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep time\tabcellsep allowan\tabcellsep \\
\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \multicolumn{5}{l}{T-1 T-2 T-3 T-4 T-5}\tabcellsep \tabcellsep ce\tabcellsep \\
\tabcellsep 1\tabcellsep OL\tabcellsep 100\tabcellsep Back rise join lining part\tabcellsep 15\tabcellsep 16\tabcellsep 15\tabcellsep 14\tabcellsep 15\tabcellsep 15\tabcellsep 18\tabcellsep 0.30\\
\tabcellsep 2\tabcellsep SNL\tabcellsep 348\tabcellsep Care label attach to back part\tabcellsep 12\tabcellsep 12\tabcellsep 12\tabcellsep 12\tabcellsep 11\tabcellsep 12\tabcellsep 14\tabcellsep 0.23\\
\tabcellsep 3\tabcellsep OL\tabcellsep 321\tabcellsep Front rise join lining part\tabcellsep 12\tabcellsep 14\tabcellsep 15\tabcellsep 13\tabcellsep 14\tabcellsep 14\tabcellsep 16\tabcellsep 0.27\\
Year 2017 6 XVII Issue I Version I ( ) Volume G Journal of Researches in Engineering\tabcellsep 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18\tabcellsep H OL OL H OL H SNL H SNL SNL SNL H OL H SNL\tabcellsep 323 370 A-52 B-81 174 277 24 339 152 358 352 367 138 361 142\tabcellsep Back + front part matching lining part Side seam join lining part Side pocket bag close Pocket pair matching \& thread cut Front rise join Shell part Pocket join position mark Pocket bag join to body Pocket join position corner cut Pocket opening 1/4 top stitch Side Pocket fixed tack Pocket w/belt position tack Sticker remove Back rise join shell part Back + front part matching shell part Side seam join shell part\tabcellsep 13 26 15 12 15 14 46 14 33 29 12 12 15 15 39\tabcellsep 14 27 14 16 14 15 44 14 34 26 13 10 11 12 37\tabcellsep 15 25 15 14 16 12 48 15 35 23 15 13 10 12 35\tabcellsep 13 24 14 12 16 15 43 13 32 25 11 12 12 15 39\tabcellsep 14 25 16 13 15 13 47 12 33 24 14 14 13 13 40\tabcellsep 14 25 15 13 15 14 46 14 33 25 13 12 12 13 38\tabcellsep 16 30 18 16 18 16 54 16 39 30 16 15 15 16 45\tabcellsep 0.28 0.50 0.30 0.28 0.29 0.28 0.90 0.28 0.65 0.50 0.28 0.25 0.25 0.26 0.75\\
Global\tabcellsep 19\tabcellsep OL\tabcellsep 173\tabcellsep Side seam join position over lock\tabcellsep 31\tabcellsep 27\tabcellsep 28\tabcellsep 26\tabcellsep 25\tabcellsep 27\tabcellsep 33\tabcellsep 0.55\\
\tabcellsep 20\tabcellsep IRN\tabcellsep 317\tabcellsep Side seam join position iron\tabcellsep 13\tabcellsep 10\tabcellsep 16\tabcellsep 12\tabcellsep 14\tabcellsep 13\tabcellsep 16\tabcellsep 0.28\\
\tabcellsep 21\tabcellsep H\tabcellsep 373\tabcellsep Shell part mark \& fitting\tabcellsep 12\tabcellsep 14\tabcellsep 13\tabcellsep 13\tabcellsep 14\tabcellsep 13\tabcellsep 16\tabcellsep 0.28\\
\tabcellsep 22\tabcellsep H\tabcellsep 316\tabcellsep Lining part \& shell part matching\tabcellsep 13\tabcellsep 9\tabcellsep 12\tabcellsep 9\tabcellsep 11\tabcellsep 11\tabcellsep 13\tabcellsep 0.22\\
\tabcellsep 23\tabcellsep SNL\tabcellsep 327\tabcellsep Lining part join to shell part w/belt\tabcellsep 41\tabcellsep 39\tabcellsep 37\tabcellsep 37\tabcellsep 38\tabcellsep 38\tabcellsep 45\tabcellsep 0.75\end{longtable} \par
 
\caption{\label{tab_1}Table 2 :}\end{figure}
 \begin{figure}[htbp]
\noindent\textbf{} \par 
\begin{longtable}{P{0.1789473684210526\textwidth}P{0.27045454545454545\textwidth}P{0.18301435406698566\textwidth}P{0.004066985645933014\textwidth}P{0.014234449760765551\textwidth}P{0.010167464114832535\textwidth}P{0.010167464114832535\textwidth}P{0.004066985645933014\textwidth}P{0.004066985645933014\textwidth}P{0.004066985645933014\textwidth}P{0.02033492822966507\textwidth}P{0.026435406698564593\textwidth}P{0.004066985645933014\textwidth}P{0.004066985645933014\textwidth}P{0.008133971291866028\textwidth}P{0.042703349282296646\textwidth}P{0.004066985645933014\textwidth}P{0.004066985645933014\textwidth}P{0.010167464114832535\textwidth}P{0.004066985645933014\textwidth}P{0.008133971291866028\textwidth}P{0.004066985645933014\textwidth}P{0.026435406698564593\textwidth}}
\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \multicolumn{2}{l}{Fix}\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep Bpt\\
8 Year 2017\tabcellsep 10 15 20 25\tabcellsep 18\tabcellsep 14\tabcellsep 1616 15\tabcellsep 18 16\tabcellsep 18 16\tabcellsep 18\tabcellsep 16\tabcellsep 20\tabcellsep 15 16 1515\tabcellsep 16 15 16 1616\tabcellsep 13\tabcellsep 15\tabcellsep 1818\tabcellsep 1515 14 15 1616 15 14\tabcellsep 17\tabcellsep 15\tabcellsep 18\tabcellsep 16\tabcellsep 1818\tabcellsep 12\tabcellsep 1616 17 15\\
XVII Issue I Version I\tabcellsep 0 5\tabcellsep \multicolumn{21}{l}{1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1011121314151617181920212223242526272829303132333435363738394041424344}\\
( ) Volume G Journal of Researches in Engineering\tabcellsep \multicolumn{10}{l}{? Lack of skilled operator ? Improper supervising of sewing line ? Machine break down ?}\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \\
Global\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \\
\tabcellsep \multicolumn{4}{l}{© 2017 Global Journals Inc. (US)}\tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \tabcellsep \end{longtable} \par
 
\caption{\label{tab_2}}\end{figure}
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